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Mexico City in February 2024


mis días con dios mexicanos


my days with mexican gods


the god of traffic

dios de trafico

the god

of pollution

of overcrowdness

of the gradual sinking city

once built by Aztecs

built on water

(where is the water?)


a „magical“ city

quips a guide

as fast as your

credit card here



crime, drugs,

femicides, desaparecidos

news from Mexico


I am preparing myself

„come back safe“

„ui, that’s brave“


The driver is waiting.

Evening. Hotel.

Genuinely vintage, old colonial architecture

wooden elevator, galleries in the inner courtyard

the rooms on

flower railings

and light

Door is difficult to close


Window to the outside gallery

Safe does not work

I can only use a few numbers

the janitor speaks

only Spanish

and smiles

I try several options


says the janitor

and no dippdipp

I show the door and window


he shrugs his shoulders

says something about surveillance


I wonder if I should have invested

1000 Euros more?


Breakfast is included

thick pancakes

hard taco variations

always lots of queso


in the first days

I don’t know

what to eat

I was warned about

the usual gastrointestinal malaise

Brushing my teeth with

bottled water

twice I go to


(„Mexiko me encanta“)

Order failed


ah, papas grande

is the name of this

coke without ice cream

por favor

sin hielo

or was it called something else

at least I’m full


I get on the Turibus

and drive back and forth

across the city


hellish noise

traffic jams, skyscrapers

huge cathedrals

„de mundo“

it sounds

from the loudspeakers


fall asleep again and again

jet lag

oh well

sunglasses, of course,


fall asleep again


we drive through the

alto clase – neighborhood


Billionaire Museum

golden commercial buildings



I miss my dog

my dogsitter in


writes to me,

that he has been whining for two days


at the colossal


I get out

concert hall

„de mundo“


six-lane Paseo de Reforma

over a street walk

requires patience

be careful, lady

the pavements are treacherous

sloping sidewalks


Honking, screaming, shouting

what are they shouting?

oh well

they are selling

oh – blueberries

and frases


how I would love to eat fruit

but is that possible?


from megaphone marketing







 I understand the

street vendor

oh well, a kind of sounding

sound instrument

jaguars and owls

I see the

green and red ceramics

try to play it


I laugh

that sounds good

cuarenta y cinque pesos

maybe for one of the daughters

or the nietas



my first souvenir

I stroll on

and drink another


the revenge of Monteczuma

that’s what we call it

Oh dear, the Aztec king

I reach the

Museo de Antropología

and –

am overwhelmed


pyramid walls



of ancient indigenous





heard of them

names difficult

to pronounce and

to remember


Nahuátl is the name of one of the languages


Huitzilopochtli – the god of war of the Aztecs

their patron saint

the feathered serpent



incredible human history

they built pyramids

on which temples stood

interlocking lava rock formations

that withstood the earthquakes

pre-Christian sustainability

base hundreds of meters wide

gods of the Creación,

of the rain

huge penises



how little we know

outside our



after several hours

I am a few kilos

books heavier


on Zócalo

the concheros dance

with their shell rattles

 on their legs

magnificent masks

you can get smoked

get smoked by them

copal and pirul

are the name of the incense

drums and flutes


on the way back

the serious face

of a child woman

plump baby



in the smog

the angel of


altar of the fatherland



I meet Jozan

black hat

pink T-shirt

historian of gastronomy

and human


in a kilometer-long


he shows me the stores

for the quinzeras

the fifteen-year-olds

whose female adulthood

are celebrated

with expensive parties

2000 – 20000 dollars

 is what the parents spend

says Jozan

and the so-called


are young men

who are hired for good money


to dance

with these precios

dressed glittery women

in petticoats

that’s what he did

he laughs

and takes a bow


the great tower of the Aztecs

by chance found

during construction work

for the metro

Temple pyramid

of the Aztecs

Cortéz, the Conquistadores,

have destroyed everything in the


with the stones of the pyramids

they built their




historical recycling

says Jozan


yes yes, the Aztecs sacrificed


 50000 warriors per year

blood, heart, life for the gods

(how many hundreds of thousands of soldiers

are sacrificed in current wars?)

most of these warriors

were from the surrounding countryside

from other peoples

who were oppressed by the Aztecs

therefore they

made common

with the Conquistadores

to get rid of the Aztecs

It took less than two years

their destruction


Rich country

says Natasha,

 Russian British

with Münchner Kindl roots

She buys herself a heavy necklace

of silver and



also such an exploring lady


about our latest findings

She is (among other things) a rigger

stage technician,

rigging for spotlights & co

she is currently touring with Bryan Adams

around the world

also oceansailor a.o.

Just no news

she says

you just need to know

where the money goes

then you know

who wants to conquer

what and how

Wanted to bring mom to England,

but she loves him,

the Putin,

she could live decently now

after the misery of the nineties

Moscow is beautiful

cheap food

Free cures for the pensioner

What the aunt is telling

says Natascha

after a sales clerk

tries to rip her off


the city is sinking

the old buildings of Mexico Ciudad

some already leaning more than half a meter

the Virgen de Guadelupe

in her basilica with a capacity of ten thousand Catholics

is kept in balance by underground hydraulics

We cannot solve the problem

only control it

says the architect


Place de la Constitutión


built according to a prophecy

where an eagle on a cactus

eats a snake

on an island

in the middle of lakes


The Aztecs came

from the north

Arizona, Utah

(where are actually the tequila fences

of the Mexicans

to keep others

from their territory ?)


Frida Kahlo – bohemian superstar

perfect storytelling

in her casa azul

A beguiling flower smile

Diego Rivera

constantly kisses her hand

They were married twice

In between, he once loved

her youngest sister

Polio, accident, great painting, corset and the colors


A tar machine rages outside

The street is steaming

A Mexican coffee


Summery Christmas on the tongue

Cinnamon and cardamon

and nibble a churro with créme fraĭche

Coyotes are also nation builders

Coyoacán is the name of this neighborhood


In Xochimilco

where the naked axolotl has its exclusive residence

 I make friends

with two bold Taiwanese women

A doctor and something to do with the film industry

They order micheladas

with everything that goes:

Beefblood, tequila, mole (local sauce), chocolate

We take a ride in a colorful boat

through the canal landscape

Just like in Venice

But experienced mariachis play music here

Black cowboy style with silver fittings

At one point they play a son

That’s beautiful


Chinese New Year. Holidays

toast the ladies from Taiwan

They cruise in a Land Rover

through raging rivers and fish (?)

something the size of blue whales

I gather from their movements

They can only think of the Chinese word for it

Should definitely travel to Japan too

they recommend

Their parents are so worried right now

the people here are calm and kind

I say


we should not hear so much US-news,

they say


Later, Friday night,

when we get off the bus

Party in the Centro Historico

El Palacio des Bellas Artes

in festive lighting

Be careful, Paula

Double hug

The tourists hold their backpacks

in front of their bellies

Policía parades

Security everywhere

On the Konsti in Frankfurt

it‘s probably more dangerous


Did you feel

the two small earthquakes this morning?

my mirror rattled


most of the time we don’t even feel them

the three earthquakes a day


UNAM is a university as a city

whole buildings

like the library

painted with Mexico’s history

Murales –

a specific art form

education painted on walls

understandable for everyone

The Grande Tres

Rivera, Siqueiros, Orozco


Orozco is a discovery

a nihilist as a muralist

All ideologies in the trash

he paints

church, communism, capitalism


 and that already in the twenties

a hundred years ago,

in the 19th century


 in the Mexican constitution

the separation

of church and state

(do we not seem

underdeveloped ?)



thick black plait of hair

down to his hips,

tells us the

the historical background of the

Palacio des Bellas Artes

Dictator Porfirio Díaz

with a soft spot for European Art Deco

Why dictator

a New Yorker wants to know

He brought wealthy into the country

By definition

explains Emiliano,

a dictator is someone

who at some point no longer allows himself to be elected,

but elects himself

for over 30 years

then revolution


Flowing mural

by Siqueiros

three rooms

above the roofs of the city

Chapultepec Castle





He had to go into exile




Before him

the Habsburg

Emperor Maximilian 

lived here

with his wife of seventeen years, Charlotte,

enlightened ruling couple


they also learn the

languages of the indigenous people


But the Insurgentes,

do not want the

the colonial emperor

After two years

he is shot

Charlotte goes mad



did an internship here

That’s why we are not controlled

You are allowed to carry water bottles

in your backpack

The nicest cops in the world,

beams Isaak


Jimena raves about

authentic mexican food

The group is immediately


Two couples from Sarajevo

My next destination

(are they surprised?)

The finer points of mezcal,

various types of tequila

pulque from cactus

(mild like beer,

is always emphasized)


Agaves provided

the first fibers,

paper and

these fermenting




roasted grasshoppers

in lemon chili

I can feel their legs

on my tongue

a kind of ant

also belongs to the

mexican cuisine

In the Mercado de San Juan

there are even

lion burgers





and mariscos

Again and again

all sorts of things

from corn

The corn god

has a good reputation


in the meantime I also dare

street food

hearty sopas, quesadillas


Near Chalula and Puebla

are enthroned like graceful

the two

over five thousand meters high






On the largest pyramid base

in the world,

400 meters wide,

a church.

Overgrown pyramids

were thought by the conquistadors

for mountains

and left them





carry clouds

and look good

smaller and larger


again and again


flight cancellations

indigenous shamans

can appease God Popocatépetl


Santa María Tonantzintla

is double:

Church and temple

At some point the Franciscans had

allowed the indigenous believers

syncret their religion

into Catholicism

El paraiso

mexican baroque



The main indigenous goddess is Mother Nature.

Tonantzin has always been there.

Unlike the god of the conquistadors,

he created everything.


El centro del universo

Even the ancient indigenous peoples

many centuries

before the Aztecs,

believed this.

At some point they disappeared

They built gigantic buildings,

but left behind

no writings

The Aztecs don’t destroyed

these pyramids

in Teotihuacán


celebrated in them

their own rituals.


We are a mixture

tres culturas






of the








God of the sun

Goddess of the moon


The dead are celebrated

because they belong to life

The dead

in Mexico


very cool



they sit around



papier-mâché skeleton hands,

read taught books




or traditionally


Besame mucho

Kiss me. Kiss me


Even in my hotel

there are some

to greet me


I was fine here



after many hours

in heaven



happily wiser